Alice Feiring’s The Battle for Wine and Love

I finished Alice Feiring’s book today — it was like a split of a great wine (meaning a 375 ml bottle) — not nearly enough of a good thing and left me wanting more…..

I think it is an important book that deserves attention and discussion. I know it will stir emotions, but hope that it will also generate discussion and an desire for wine drinkers to know what it is they are drinking.

Wineries are not required to disclose all of the elements in the wine or the process to make the wine. That nice little bottle of wine you brought home could have been manipulated with designer yeasts, enzymes, tannin, oak chips, oak on a rope, through the bunghole oak socks, oak dust, acid, beet juice and other additives — not to metion the over-extracting techniques, micro-oxygenation, dialysis and reverse osmosis — and a whole list of things you might not want to know about. When did wine become a vinicultural hot dog?

Too strange to be true? View this article in Wines & Vines, a publication aimed at winemakers, that details all kinds of bells and whistles to add to your winemaking bag of tricks. The article is appropriately entitled Viagra for Barrels. Insert bad joke here.

Wine making began as art, evolved to become a combination of art and science. Today, it is often more driven by science and technology, rather than being the result of a process that for the most part occurs in the vineyard. Add to the mix that the market is heavily influenced by the opinions of a select few critics (especially Parker) who award very ripe, fruit-driven, with heavy oak — and winemakers take every tool of the trade to manipulate the results, leaving out authenticity, place, artistry and tradition.

A difficult pill to swallow for those of us that love to ponder the aromatics and the complexities and nuances of a wine’s flavor profile. Having spent time, energy and money on something on much that was at least in part an illusion….and now you are stuck with a few cases of that 1982 Marion Jones Estate Cabernet bottled under the supervision of Frau Blücher.

The good news is that there are still some gems that are wonders of nature and artistry — and those are the wines Alice Feiring champions — they are at least worthy of your consideration. At the end of the day, you can let your palate decide — but you should know what you are drinking.

In general, I tend to agree with many of the points that she makes in the book. At the same time, I am sure there are some wines that I might enjoy that she might turn her nose up at — but that is also my prerogative. One’s taste in wine is in large part subjective, but I certainly think there are some points that many of us can agree on.

Her book is one of the most enjoyable I have read about wine in a few years. Most of all, it will make you wonder just exactly is in that bottle and how did it get there — a question that is much more difficult to answer than it should be. Strongly recommended.

Visit her blog — always a great read and also very interesting to see her detail reactions to the book.

Domaine de Tariquet Chenin Chardonnay, 2006

Since 1912 Château du Tariquet has been home to the Grassa family. They first gained notoriety for Hélène and Pierre Grassa’s Armagnac.

They began producing white wine in 1982. Yves Grassa broke into winemaking by breaking the rules. He was the first in the region to plant chardonnay, sauvignon or chenin grapes, which were far from popular in those days. Furthermore, he produced blends of sworn enemies such as chardonnay with sauvignon, or chenin with chardonnay. Today, their portfolio includes 9 white wines and a rosé.

I was intrigued by the Chenin/Chardonnay blend — and was pretty impressed with the results.

Light golden straw in color. Floral and exotic fruit aromatics. On the palate, there are some contrasts and complexities with the Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay blend. From the Chenin (75%), crisp notes of apple and minerality with a hint of saltiness. The Chardonnay (25%) seems to add richness, body, structure and creaminess. There is also an underlying sweet and sour component (which I think really makes it a interesting pairing for Indian and Asian cuisines, as they often have a sweet and sour as well).

Drinkable and food friendly at 12% alcohol. Serve as an apertif, with seafood, or as stated with Asian or Indian dishes. A very good value at about $12 a bottle. Imported by Robert Kacher.

Tariquet uses organic fertilizer and the use of sulphites has been reduced to a minimum. The estate also features a water treatment facility and they recycle and reuse all materials.

Rober Kacher Annual Spring Portfolio Tasting 2008

This afternoon I attended Robert Kacher’s annual spring tasting for trade and media at the Washington Club in DC. They poured more than 150 different wines from the Kacher portfolio.

Some very good Châteauneuf-du-Papes, standouts included Domaine Font de Michelle, the Domaine Les Cailloux Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the Les Cailloux Centenaire.

The 06 wines from Domaine Albert Morot were a pleasure to taste, especially the 1er Cru Teurons and the 1er Cru Aigrots. Other Burgundy standouts included the Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 2006 and the Xavier Monnot 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 2006.

Kacher imports more good French roses than just about anyone. Highlights included:
- Mas de Bressades
- Mas Carlot
- Domaine des Corbillieres
- Domaine de Gournier
- Mas de Guiot
- Domaine de la Petite Cassagne

As is usually the case, I really liked his wines from Costières de Nîmes, especially the Mas des Bressades Viognier-Roussanne (previously reviewed), though I was surprisingly not very fond of their Grenache-Syrah. I also was impressed with some of the wines from Mas Carlot (especially the “Les Enfants Terribles) and Mas des Guiot. These wines are well made and not over-handled and a great value as well.

From the Loire, the Domaine des Corbillieres and Domaine Thomas et Fils (especially the Ultimus) Sauvigon Blanc. They also poured a delightful Muscadet from Domaine de la Quilla.

Finally, there was an Argentine producer, Furque, that was pouring a very approachable Syrah (priced at about $14 a bottle) and I thought their Malbec Roble and Syrah Roble were wines I would seek out.

I didn’t get to as many wines as I had hoped, it was very well attended — and I tend to have enough at these types of events after about 90 minutes. There are always plenty of gracious, polite and charming people — but it always seems like there are a handful that really are quite obnoxious. I decided I had enough when a woman in a black suit with gold chains and too much perfume muscled me out of the way for the third time.

Robert Kacher was there and made himself available — he seemed to be enjoying himself and was a welcome opportunity to meet him. All of the staff were also extremely friendly, both at the event and when registering. I was also impressed with the food, I had already had lunch so I didn’t eat anything, but they really hit all the marks in making it feel like a special event.

Robert Kacher really is deserving of more recognition and appreciation — and you can be pretty confident you are getting a really good wine and a good value when you see Kacher listed as the importer.

Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly, 2006

This wine includes some fruit from Didier’s famed Pur Sang, Buisson Renard and Silex cuvees. It is barrel-fermented and aged half in stainless steel and half in large, neutral barrels.

On the nose, lemon, citrus, white flowers, fresh hay and some mineral notes. On the palate, sharp acidity with rich and creamy lemon and butter components with nice minerality. A clean, persistent finish. There are some similarities to the Pur Sang, as others have noted it is softer — and does not hit the same mark in terms of minerality, complexity, structure or focus. That all being said, this is an outstanding expression of the varietal and the place. It would also probably be one of the nicest bottles of white wine you would hope to find on the shelf at most boutique wine shops.

I am repeating the contents of the post about Didier Dagueneau as his story is worth repeating (and reading). His wines are not the easiest to find — and while I would never turn down an opportunity to enjoy his wines, I would opt for the Pur Sang over the Blanc Fumé de Pouilly.

View Pur Sang review.

About Didier Dagueneau
Didier Dagueneau has been called a nonconformist, independent, eccentric, and maverick. He is also dedicated to producing some of the greatest white wines of the Loire — and all of France for that matter. He is considered by many to be a master of the sauvignon blanc grape.

He is on a crusade to redeem the reputation of authentic Pouilly-Fumé. Domaine Didier Dagueneau is located in Saint Andelain, a village in the Pouilly Fumé Appellation. He owns about 28 acres of land consisting of mainly clay and flint based soils (or ‘Silex’ in French). Dagueneau is a perfectionist and he attends to every detail — from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, which is said to look like a cathedral. He goes way beyond the regulations of the appellation — pruning severely, de-budding, de-leafing, thinning clusters, and keeping low yields — and each harvest is done manually over several tries (he has the labor receipts to prove it).

Others have written more eloquently about Dagueneau. The following passage was translated from Vallee de la Loire – Grandeur Nature by James Turnball.

A young rebel with convictions. Dagueneau owes his success to the strength of his convictions. A local winemaker’s son, he set out on his own in 1982. He began using oak barrels for his vinifications a couple years later and wines of great quality were not far behind. Certain traditionalists, however, said that his wines were not “real” Pouilly Fume.

Dagueneau’s non-conformity has helped him more than hurt him: his long tousled hair, his bushy beard, his intense gaze, not to mention his passion for sled dogs have all earned him the nickname “the madman of Saint-Andelain” and made him very popular with the press.

What does Dagueneau have that the other don’t? He is extremely meticulous and possesses a special intuition where winemaking is concerned. His goals are always authenticity and perfection. To obtain grapes of the highest quality, his vineyard workers spend at least three months carefully de-budding even after a severe pruning earlier in the year. And when the grapes are perfectly ripe, the harvest is done by hand, so that only grapes of impeccable condition are picked, the others are either thrown out or left on the vine to be picked later.

His new winemaking facilities, specifically adapted to Dagueneau’s techniques, use gravity for moving liquids and allow him to apply his ideas without the slightest compromise. After fermentation, the wines are aged in a beautiful cellar containing big barrels and “cigares” (small, long oval barrels which he designed and are made especially for him). The cellar is kept quite cool to limit interaction between the wine and the oak, thus avoiding an overly oaky aroma in the wine.

Dagueneau makes four different dry white wines, all Pouilly Fumés. His basic wine is the En Chailloux, a blend from several vineyards. Next step up is the Buisson Menard, more flinty in style, but still round, and more ageworthy. The remaining two wines are both superstars from single vineyards, and are barrel fermented. Both come from slate soils with one being called Silex, and the other known as Pur Sang.

Gulfi Nero Bufaleffi, 2000

Gulfi is a a relatively new producer of organic wines — their wines aren’t widely available but worth seeking out. They were established in 1996 and current production is about 20,000 cases.

This is made from the Sicilian red grape Nero d’Avola. It comes from a limestone-based vineyard around Pachino in the Val di Noto region of Sicily.

Cherry in color with just a bit of copper, almost a bit cloudy in the glass. Stewed rubarb and cherry, cocoa and a touch of vanilla and Old World vegetable components on the nose. Very complex with dark berry fruit, sour cherry with some tar and mineral notes on the palate, soft tannins — quite approachable (I am not sure if I would put this down much longer).

A very nice wine, though at this price point ($30) I think there might be better options in terms of value. But this was a very nice bottle of wine that paired perfectly with tomato sauce with meatballs and sausage.

It is worth seeking out the Gulfi Carjacanti as well.

Louis/Dressner Selections

Louis/Dressner Selections is a portfolio of over 60 vignerons fro France, Italy and Portugal. They are a partnership of Denyse Louis, a native Burgundian, Joe Dressner and Kevin McKenna. Collectively, They spend nearly nine months a year in Europe working with their growers and selecting wines for importation to America.

They represent a group of often fanatical growers who are doing their best to make wines that are original because they are honestly crafted. These might seem old-fashioned, but in the present context it is almost revolutionary.

There are no gobs, no exaggerations, no over-this and over-that. They don’t have fruit bombs in their portfolio. Their wines won’t have beet juice in them, they won’t be oaked up with favored artificial wood chips. Their wines will not be 16% alcohol. They won’t have amazing vanilla aromatics induced by some designer yeast. Their wines are natural wines.

They work with growers to produce nation wines that follow several basic principles:

• Wild Yeasts (no cultured yeasts, enzymes or hormones)
• Hand Harvesting
• Low Yields
• Natural Viticulture
• No or Minimal Chaptalization (no added sugar to the must)
• Non-Filtration

Their wines have a sense of origin and varietal character. You can find their wines at Astor Wine & Spirits and Chambers Street in the NYC area.

Every wine labeled as a Louis/Dressner selection has a great story — and is a mark of traditional, natural winemaking — similar to the Good House Keeping seal of approval. Their selections are in the same category as Kermit Lynch and Neal Rosenthal.

I sent Joe Dressner an email asking where I might be able to find more of their wines in the DC area — and he got back to me within an hour. Unfortunately, their wines are not widely available in DC. They can be found, but the best selection is available online.

Faizeau Montagne St. Emilion Vielles Vignes, 2005

I was looking around at some of the 2005 Bordeaux offerings, and this was a wine that I bought as a future. I think I paid $17 a bottle, and it is now available as low as $20 and as high as $28. I was considering buying some more wines from the 05 release, and this was one of the wines I tasted to decided if I wanted to buy more.

Obviously this is very young, but decanted the wine and let it breath for 4 hours and then also went back to it on day 2.

A “little” wine from the left bank made from 100% merlot. The estate consists of 25 acres of old vine Merlot planted on a limestone/sand plateau. The average age of the vines is 50 years, although some were planted as early as 1904. After a series of years of consistent improvement, many now consider this estate to be one of the finest in Montagne-St.-Emilion.

Beautiful ruby red in color. Some kirsch, licorice and fig with a little Old World charm on the nose. On the palate, lots of structure, tannins and acidity — not to mention very dry, well integrated and a solid fruit component. Black cherry and earth with some peppered bacon fat, slate, tobacco and toasted oak. It is I did decide to buy some more, but don’t plan on touching it again for another 3-4 years.

Recommended.

Design*Sponge: In the Kitchen with Lisa Neimeth

This week’s recipe is citrus granita with shortbread cookies from Lisa Neimeth. View the recipe at Design*Sponge.

Originally from New York, Lisa Neimeth is a ceramic artist now living in San Francisco. Though she loves her new hometown, she also spends a lot of time in New Mexico, tromping around the land where Georgia O’Keeffe and Agnes Martin have walked. She loves to collect-literally and figuratively-on the beach, in the mountains, in the desert, flea markets and on the street..and incorporate all of these images into her work. Tableware is her passion right now and she spends a lot of time creating hand formed plates, platters and bowls of various sizes impressing vintage and found objects with hand etched details. See (and shop) more of Lisa’s beautiful work.

Suggested wine pairing: Bonny Doon Muscat Vin de Glaciere
Bonny Doon is going to stop making this dessert wine — and suggest you buy it now before it is no longer. The wine has an amazing nose of apricot, spice and jasmine. Apricot, orange blossom and lemon zest on the palate. The citrus components of the wine that are similar to the primary flavors in the granita and pairs well with shortbread.

This wine was served with dessert at every state dinner during the Clinton years. How it ended up being served to dignitaries and heads of state is an interesting story. When Bill Clinton was running for his first term as president, Randall Grahm gave a bunch of wine to the campaign in California. When Clinton won the presidential election, the head of the California campaign called and told Randall he would present the Clintons with a bottle of wine from Bonny Doon. Randall took a bottle of Vin de Glaciere and signed it — “Bill, I trust you will like this wine so much you will virtually inhale it! Randall” — true story as I was the trafficker of the bottle of wine.

Bonny Doon has released a Pacific Rim Riesling Vin de Glaciere that will replace the Muscat, but the phasing out of the Muscat does mark an end to an era.

About the weekly wine pairings with Design*Sponge
I will be providing the weekly wine pairing for the recipes edited by Kristina on Design*Sponge. The In-the-Kitchen-With column appears every Friday at noon, and features the recipes of design*sponge readers’ favorite designers. Design*Sponge is a daily website dedicated to home and product design run by Brooklyn-based writer, Grace Bonney. Launched in August of 2004, Design*Sponge features store and product reviews, sale and contest announcements, new designer profiles, trend forecasting and store/studio tours.

Roman-Style Artichokes — Recipe from Three Layer Cake

Kristina at Three Layer Cake posted a great recipe for Roman-Style artichokes. Her recipe also includes her beautiful photography as well. Read her post along with the recipe at Three Layer Cake.

I selected the Mas de Bressades Rosé 2007 to pair with the artichokes. Mas des Bressades is considered by many as one of the top estates in Costières de Nîmes, located 35 miles southwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, on the western side of the Rhône.

All of their wines are worth seeking out because they are consistently well made and very good values. Their rosé is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Cinsault and is vinified completely in tank. Some people might equate pink wine with sweet, but it is a dry rosé. Raspberry and strawberries come through on the nose. On the palate, it is loaded with lychee and raspberry as well as rose water, wet stone and a hint of white pepper.

Rosé wines are usually great food wines and pair well with most foods (except steaks, creamy cow’s milk cheeses). They are especially well paired with dishes that have salty or spicy components or garlic components. I tend to think of artichokes as usually being bit salty or at least tasting best when they are well salted — and the recipe calls for some Italian parsley, basil and garlic.

You could also serve Mas de Bressades Viognier/Roussane blend as well. But it’s spring — and for me, the release of the latest vintage of rosé wines is always one of the best rites of spring.

I’ll have to see if I can find some artichokes at the market to try her recipe and the wine pairing this weekend.

In regards to wine pairings, I read a very interesting article this week that indicated that while it is important to compliment, accentuate, and play off the flavors and characteristics of the food — it is also critical to keep in mind that there is a critical third component as well — the people drinking the wine.

A good sommelier or wine merchant, should always ask what types/styles of wine you enjoy as their first question. I would be a bit reluctant to follow their advice if they don’t ask you what wines or types of wines you enjoy. Their first job is to get a sense of your palate. Once they have done that, and only then, can they begin to consider the food and suggestions for a wine pairing.

For example, Sauternes and Foie Gras is one of those classic pairings; however, some people do not like Foie Gras. People generally understand that and will probably think about their guests and whether or not they would eat Foie Gras before deciding to serve it. But when pairing a wine, people usually are more focused on the food, rather than their audience. Some people don’t like Sauternes, and maybe something like a Chenin Blanc, that usually has just a bit of sweetness might be a better pairing for a given situation.

In a forum such as this that isn’t possible, but is something that is important to consider when you consider suggested pairings, they are only one possibility — your palate and that of your guests need to be taken into account as well. All of this being said, I think it is also always a good idea to try new things and expand your palate — and let your sommelier or wine merchant now that you are open to suggestions that fall outside of your usual preferences — and also to encourage your friends and guests to try new things as well. After all, some of the best memories are also the most unique as well.

Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Sauvignon Blanc #5, 2006

The vineyards of Clos Roche Blanche were planted at the end of the 19th century and have been a part of the Roussel family from day one.

Catherine Roussel took over this 28-hectare estate in 1975 from her father. She was later joined by Didier Barrouillet, who tends the vineyards and makes the wine. Neither Catherine or Didier has studied oenology or viticulture. They both learned their trade in the vineyards and the cellar. Their objective has been to to make wines of exceptional character in an appellation of modest reputation, with non-interventionist and organic principles.

The winery has been farming organically since the 1970s, and beginning with the 1995 vintage, the winery received the official “organic agricultural” accreditation. They hand-harvest all their grapes and the must is handled by gravity at all stages. The wines then age on their lees, and are bottled by gravity by hand without filtration to avoid mechanical manipulation that would unsettle it.

They keep yields low by maintaining old vines, using organic fertilizers in moderation and growing grass between and plowing under the rows.

The wine is a soft, golden yellow in color. A bit closed on the nose, soft notes of grass, citrus/tangerine (?) and wet stone. On the palate, some pineapple and white pepper with some pronounced citrus, flint and mineral components. Good acidity and viscosity — subtle, nuanced and complex. Really an intriguing bottle of wine, quite unique in terms of flavor profile. I was actually a bit perplexed by the wine and came back to it on day 2 thinking it might be a bit more forthcoming, but to no avail. Not a word of this indicates a lack of appreciation for the wine. I ordered more before I poured my second glass. It’s not very easy to find, especially under $15.

Another great wine and a tremendous value from Louis/Dressner Selections. Recommended.

Momofuku | NYC

Whenever I hear someone talk about an upcoming trip to New York, I interject myself — begging and pleading that he or she go to Momofuku or one of David Chang’s other restaurants. I can’t help myself, I try to remain silent but am usually overcome with my enthusiasm.

I accept the fact that their initial reaction might focus on my perceived strange behavior and obsession with Momofuku. They will soon understand if they make the trip. I envision a little smile and a nod of the head to acknowledge that I had my reasons for insisting they seek out the noodle bar and all of its delights.

I first ate at Momofuku in January of 2007. I had been researching Ramen places in New York City. It turned out to be not only the best ramen of the trip, but the best food and highlight of the trip.

Chang describes Momofuku as the anti-restaurant (see video for more). It was a very small space. At the back bar there were probably a dozen stools, all with a front row seat overlooking the “kitchen” — not more than 3 feet by 8 feet with 4-5 people creating each dish while continually bumping elbows. They also washed dishes in the space as well. It was worth the trip just to watch the kitchen at work.

The Momofuku combo ramen was delicious (noodles and broth, Berkshire pork belly and shoulder, poached egg, greens, fish cake and scallions). The egg was close to perfect. It is a bath-cooked egg, or onsen tamago, as it’s called in Japan. This is an egg poached in a water bath for a long time at low temperature (about 140 degrees). The white was so tender and the yolk supersoft, adding an extra layer of creaminess and richness to the ramen.

Chang’s ramen is made with a Tonkotsu broth. It is obvious why he chose this type of ramen borth as ton means pig and kotsu means bone (he certainly isn’t going to make his broth from miso). He smashes pig bones, throws them into a pot of water with seasonings like kombu (kelp), iriko, bonito flakes, onion and dried mushrooms — and then he cooks it, and cooks it and cooks it.

The noodles might have been the only component in need of a little attention, they seemed to lack a bit of bounce, but the pork…oh my, the pork.

Pork seems to be the centerpiece of many of David Chang’s dishes — that one ingredient that really shines and also lends itself to bringing out the best in all of the other ingredients to make the final dish something very memorable. Only one item on the menu either did not have pork or was not cooked in pork fat, leaving vegetarians with a single option.

We also had the brussel sprouts with pork and kimchi. I used to love to make brussel sprouts — and I thought I made them pretty well. I have tried to recreate Momofuku’s take on brussel sprouts, but my attempts always seem to fall short and I don’t make brussel sprouts as often as I used to.

David Chang’s pork buns are now famous. His take on shrimp and grits was very impressive. Everything that came out of the kitchen was so beautifully prepared. The food was quite simple but prepared with great skill and care. It was really some of the most comforting food I have ever had. Today, it seems as though everyone has heard of David Chang. Momofuku has moved to a larger space and he has opened another restaurant. Some people have told me that success has taken its toll.

David Asimov of the NYT, The Pour had a less than ideal food experience at one of David Chang’s establishments. You can read the article on David’s blog (which is definitely worth reading on a regular basis). I have heard from others that Momofuku isn’t what it was. He certainly could be a victim of his own success. Growing demand, expansion in size and number of restaurants, etc. may have come with a cost. But I dream of returning to Momofuku in the near future.

The New Yorker’s take is spot on in my opinion, “Momofuku bills itself as a noodle bar, which seems a bit like calling Le Bernardin a crab shack.” I also read on another food blog that Momofuku may currently be the best value of any restaurant in New York in its ratio of culinary creativity to cost. I can’t speak for all of the restaurants in New York, but I got as much pleasure per dollar for my meal at Momofuku as any other restaurant I have visited.

Regardless of what happens on my next visit, my first visit will always be on my short list of best food experiences and is something I will never forget — and it doesn’t even a have a wine list or a single wine by the glass.

Great video tour of Momofuku with commentary by David Chang.

Momofuku
171 First ave | btwn 10th & 11th
New York, New York 10003

Cederberg Chenin Blanc, 2007

Chenin Blanc is arguably the most versatile of all wine grape varieties. Crisp, dry table wines, light sparkling wines, nectar-like dessert wines, and even brandy are all produced in various areas of the wine world, all of Chenin Blanc. While versatile, a general tendency to over-irrigate and overcrop reduce most Chenin Blanc to the forgettable. But careful viticultural practices easily overcome the varietal’s potential weaknesses and can result in excellent wine.

Chenin Blanc often gets labeled as a great food wine. When done right, it is characterized by a really good balance of acidity with just a hint of sweetness.

Prior to the 1970s, Chenin Blanc used to occupy more land under vine in California than Chardonnay. It was used to make the overly sweet jug wines that dominated the era — and as tastes changed, Chenin Blanc was replaced with other white varietals (make way for Chardonnay).

In France, Chenin Blanc, or Pineau de la Loire, is grown in the Loire Valley — more specifically, the regions of Vouvray, Savennieres, Anjou and Samur. Many would argue that almost all of the truly memorable Chenin Blancs are French, from Saumur and Savennières (dry), Anjou and Vouvray (off-dry), Coteaux du Layon and Quarts de Chaume (dessert), and Crémant de Loire (sparkling).

But South Africa produces some great Chenin Blancs as well. Nearly a third of grapes grown in South Africa are Chenin Blanc (where it is known as Steen).

Cederberg is one of the top South African producers of Chenin Blanc. Very light straw in color. A beautiful nose with exotic floral and passion fruit and citrus aromatics. The Cederberg is light to medium bodied with mouth-tingling crispness, acidity and viscosity. It is very fruit-driven with notes of white peaches, nectarine, pear and jicama — and some citrus, grass and mineral/flint components as well.

A great paring with fresh fish, spicy Asian or Indian dishes, sushi, salads and pasta dishes with fresh herbs and garlic.

Recommended and a great value at $12-14 a bottle.

Design*Sponge: In the Kitchen with: Amenity Home

This week, Design*Sponge features recipes for avocado goat cheese spread and spicy penne pasta from Amenity Home.

About Amenity Home: After becoming friends at art school in San Francisco, Californian Nicole Chiala went on to work in publishing in London and Minnesota-native Kristina de Corpo to the advertising world of New York. Only when they both ended up in Los Angeles–a place where the wild and refined collide–did they see the way to combine their passions. Working from real cuttings taken from their gardens and walks in LA,

they craft elegant, untamed designs to be silk screened onto luxuriously pure organic fabrics. The two founded Amenity Home in 2004 to ‘bring the solace of nature home’.

View the article and recipes at Design*Sponge.

The suggested wine pairing is the Ridge Santa Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay 2005.

These dishes could be served with a full body white wine or a light-medium body red. Given the arrival of summer, I have opted for a full-bodied white. A white wine was probably a much better option for the avocado spread and work with the pasta dish.

I also wanted to feature the Ridge Chardonnay as the 2006 was recently released — and a reminder to order it now before it is no longer available. The 2005 was the #2 wine of the year on last year’s top 100 list from Wine Spectator. You can order online at the Ridge online store.

The Ridge Chardonnay is fermented in-barrel, resulting in great richness with honey and butter flavors. These components will stand up to the tomatoes, cheese and herbs in the pasta. The wine also has very nice acidity and minerality which will compliment the avocado and goat cheese.

You could also select a light to medium body red, like a Pinot Noir — with lots of bright fruit and acidity. Of course, these are just some ideas — always trust your own palate.

Read my original review of the 2005 Ridge Chardonnay.

About the weekly wine pairings with Design*Sponge
I will be providing the weekly wine pairing for the recipes edited by Kristina on Design*Sponge. The In-the-Kitchen-With column appears every Friday at noon, and features the recipes of design*sponge readers’ favorite designers. Design*Sponge is a daily website dedicated to home and product design run by Brooklyn-based writer, Grace Bonney. Launched in August of 2004, Design*Sponge features store and product reviews, sale and contest announcements, new designer profiles, trend forecasting and store/studio tours.