Catherine Roussel took over this 28-hectare estate in 1975 from her father. She was later joined by Didier Barrouillet, who tends the vineyards and makes the wine. Neither Catherine or Didier has studied oenology or viticulture. They both learned their trade in the vineyards and the cellar. Their objective has been to to make wines of exceptional character in an appellation of modest reputation, with non-interventionist and organic principles.
The winery has been farming organically since the 1970s, and beginning with the 1995 vintage, the winery received the official “organic agricultural” accreditation. They hand-harvest all their grapes and the must is handled by gravity at all stages. The wines then age on their lees, and are bottled by gravity by hand without filtration to avoid mechanical manipulation that would unsettle it.
They keep yields low by maintaining old vines, using organic fertilizers in moderation and growing grass between and plowing under the rows.
The wine is a soft, golden yellow in color. A bit closed on the nose, soft notes of grass, citrus/tangerine (?) and wet stone. On the palate, some pineapple and tropical fruit — and loaded with pronounced citrus, flint and mineral components. Good acidity and viscosity — subtle, nuanced and complex. I was actually a bit perplexed by the wine and came back to it on day 2 thinking it might be a bit more forthcoming, but to no avail. Not a word of this indicates a lack of appreciation for the wine. I ordered more before I poured my second glass. It’s not very easy to find, but worth seeking out at under $15 a bottle.
Another great wine and a tremendous value from Louis/Dressner Selections. Recommended.