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This is probably the purest expression of Gamay you’ll ever encounter, tipping the Richter scale in terms of its balance between complexity and pleasure. ~Kermit Lynch

Granted, he imports and sells the wine so you might be inclined to think his opinion is biased — and I expect it is but that doesn’t mean it’s not pretty close to the actual truth. Grown in what is considered one of the top granite soils in the region, all hand-harvested and vinified Burgundian style in barrel (no industrial yeasts) with little to no sulfur and bottled unfiltered. It certainly falls into the natural wine category — and naturally delicious by just about any standard.  Jean and Agnès Foillard are superstars in France, and their Morgon seems to always be well received and in short supply in the United States.

This wine is from the Côte du Py, a  small parcel of the cru of Morgon, one of 10 Beaujolais villages in the north of that region designated by AOC rules as special and allowed to label their wares by the village, not region, name. As a result, this wine is labeled with the name of it’s hillside of origin (Côte du Py) and the village from whence it came (Morgon), but no mention of the larger region of Beaujolais is made. While it would be correct to call this a Beaujolais, it is more closely aligned with a light & fragrant Burgundy. That all being said, descriptions don’t do it justice and it is just one of those wines that has to be experienced.

A little murky, but beautiful garnet color. Aromatics of cherry, strawberry, violets, earth and spice. On palate, raspberry, cherry, currant and plum — some spice, a homeopathic dose of funk and a whole lot of character. Great purity of fruit and minerality. Lush and silky smooth, but vibrant acidity. 13% alcohol. I also loved the 07 Jean Foillard Morgon Corcelette, but the Côte du Py might be its equal. The Corcelette is a bit more feminine and seductive, while the Côte du Py has a bit more structure and meat to it. Both are stunning wines and strongly recommended. Imported by Kermit Lynch.

Related post:
Jean & Agnes Foillard — Morgon Cuvée Corcelette Vieille Vigne 2007

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