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Posts Tagged ‘Jacques Puffeney’

The Jura is a narrow valley in the remote hills between Burgundy to the west and Switzerland to the east. Most Americans have never been exposed to the wines from the Jura (though they have probably had their cheese). For centuries, the Jura existed in isolation, developing its unusual grapes and styles of wine, which the rest of the world essentially ignored, until recently.

Today, wine geeks and lovers are discovering the wines and it now borders on obsession for those that have been bitten by the Jura bug — and Jacques Puffeney is on many people’s short list of best producers. His prowess in both the vineyards and the cave has earned him the nickname among his colleagues of “the Pope of Arbois.” Eric Asimov described Puffeney as a creator of “jagged wines in a silky-smooth world.”

He normally begins harvest in late September, everything is done manually. It commences with the Chardonnay, then the Poulsard, followed by Pinot Noir and Trousseau and finally, the Savagnin is picked. The Poulsard experiences a 15 to 20 day cuvaison. The wine is then racked into foudres (not new) where the malolactic fermentation takes place. The reds are aged at least two years and sometimes 30 months in barrel depending upon the structure of the vintage.

The Poulsard “M” takes its name from the town of Montagny-les-Arsures. Bright ruby in color, but totally transparent. Aromatics of red fruit with some rose petal as well as some funky gaminess and oxidized notes. Cherry, rhubarb, red currant and a little blood orange and herbaceous — with solid minerality. Lean and firm with almost perfect balance as well as lots of grip and acidity. 12.5 percent alcohol. I thought this was unique, thought provoking and just plain delicious. For my taste, I thought this showed best when served at about 48 degrees. Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchant. Recommended.

Related posts:
Jacques Puffeney Arbois Pinot Noir 2006

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The Jura is a narrow valley in the remote hills between Burgundy to the west and Switzerland to the east. Most Americans have never been exposed to the wines from the Jura (though they have probably had their cheese). For centuries, the Jura existed in isolation, developing its unusual grapes and styles of wine, which the rest of the world essentially ignored, until recently. Today, wine geeks and lovers are discovering the wines and it now borders on obsession for those that have been bitten by the Jura bug — and Jacques Puffeney is on many people’s short list of best producers.

Puffeney’s father was a vineyard worker who owned a mere speck of land in the village of Montigny Les Arsures (around the corner from Arbois). Jacques made his first wine at the age of 17 but, to earn a living, worked simultaneously as a “saleur de Comte” helping to make the fabled cheese of his region. Over time he acquired vineyards and now his estate consists of 7 1/2 hectares, all in the appellation of Arbois. His prowess in both the vineyards and the cave has earned him the nickname among his colleagues of “the Pope of Arbois.” Eric Asimov described Puffeney as a creator of “jagged wines in a silky-smooth world.”

He normally begins harvest in late September, everything is done manually. It commences with the Chardonnay, then the Poulsard, followed by Pinot Noir and Trousseau and finally, the Savagnin is picked. The Poulsard experiences a 15 to 20 day cuvaison. The wine is then racked into foudres (not new) where the malolactic fermentation takes place. The reds are aged at least two years and sometimes 30 months in barrel depending upon the structure of the vintage.

The ’06 is ruby in color, with a wee bit of orange and copper and a little cloudy. Sour cherry, strawberry, rose petal and earth with some spice, mineral, nutty and oxidative notes. On the palate, taut and tart with raspberry, sour cherry, red currant, rhubarb and a hint of sherry. Austere, acidic and tannic — but oddly enough there is also something very soothing about the wine. This is not a quaffer, but rewards (and virtually demands) going slow and savoring every bit. Medium bodied at best, yet this will stand up to foods twice its size. 13% alcohol. Imported by Neal Rosenthal.

This wine along with the wines from Jean Follaird just might top my list of favorite reds from the last 6 months.

Related posts:
Jacques Puffeney Arbois Poulsard “M” 2006
Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py 2007
Jean & Agnes Foillard — Morgon Cuvée Corcelette Vieille Vigne 2007

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