Domaine Gramenon Ceps Centenaires La Mémé 2000

Domaine Gramenon is one of the most respected producers in the Rhône. In his book on the wines of the Rhône valley, Robert Parker classified Gramenon in the same category as Beaucastel and Fonsalette. In 1998, owner Phillipe Laurent nearly doubled the area of his vineyards by purchasing some 50 acres in Vinsobres. A year later, he died in a tragic accident and his wife decided to sell some 35 acres the Perrin brothers at Beaucastel. Michelle Aubery-Laurent and her son Maxim-François continue making wines in a pretty natural way, with sulphur dioxide used just at assemblage. Their vineyards are farmed organically, and they never filter or fine their wines.

Their wines are not very well known in the United States as they are available on a limited basis. I found Gramenon’s wines through Kermit Lynch’s newsletter. He described them as a pure expression of biodynamically farmed, old vine Grenache with knock-out fruit flavors tempered by a core of strong minerality. Some might not want to pay $30 for a bottle of Côtes du Rhône, but I was able to pick up a sampler pack of their wine from Kermit Lynch at 25% off and each one of the wines has been a winner.

Last year I found some older vintages of Domaine Gramenon at MacArthur Beverages in Washington, DC — including a few bottles of their Ceps Centenaires La Mémé from 2000 and 2001. The Centenaires La Mémé is made from 100 year old Grenache vines. It is fermented with stems and aged without any sulfur dioxide additions. Gramenon’s wines are said to show best in their relative youth, so wasn’t sure what to expect from a bottle from the 2000 vintage. Copper plum in color, definitely showing a some age. Still showing some lush and silky fruit on the palate, though not as bright as the younger Gramenon’s I have had. It’s picked up a lot of complexity and has also softened and mellowed. Not sure I would sit on this much longer, but it was a memorable bottle. Add another notch to why this domaine is on my list of favorites.

Related posts:
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône 2007
Domaine Gramenon Sierra du Sud 2007
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône 2007
Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône Blanc Vie on y Est 2008
Domaine Gramenon Les Laurentides Côtes du Rhône 2007

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Mas des Bressades Roussanne-Viognier 2007

Mas des Bressades is considered by many as one of the top estates in Costières de Nîmes, located 35 miles southwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, on the western side of the Rhône. Cyril Marès has been the winemaker since 1996. He previously worked for Chalone in California and Bruno Prats in Chile. His wife, Natalie Blanc, owns the adjacent estate, Mas Carlot.

For the last 11 vintages, I have bought their Roussanne/Viognier. This wine would be on my short list of white wines by the glass if I owned a restaurant and was looking to develop a wine list that offered quality and value. They make two red cuvées. The Cuvée Excellence is a Syrah-dominated blend, and Cuvée Tradition, is an unoaked southern blend of Syrah and Grenache. Not to mention their Rosé, which is excellent.

This wine is a blend of  55% Viognier and 45% Roussanne which is aged completely in barrel; 80% new oak and 20% 1 year old. The wine only stays in barrel for 5 months in order to introduce some complexity and structure, but isn’t over-oaked in my opionion. Soft aromatics with some tropical fruit. Pear, apple, apricot and some exotic fruits with a touch of citrus and underlying minerality on the palate. Good richness with nice weight and some creaminess, but perhaps just a tad light on the  acidity. The 2007 doesn’t disappoint — a very good wine and a very good value. Recommended.

Their wines are imported by Robert Kacher. He founded Robert Kacher Selections more than 20 years ago. Robert Parker named him “one of the 20 most influential wine personalities of the past 20 years” and in 2004 Bobby became Chevalier de l’Ordre du Mérite Agricole, one of only a handful of U.S. importers to ever receive the honor. Some have been a bit critical of Kacher for his very hands on approach with the winemakers he represents. But he is more often praised for the quality and value of the wines he represents.

I bought this wine at MacArthur Beverages in Washington, DC. It was on sale for $13.99 a bottle. As I have stated before, I love their selection, but I have never been asked if I need any help or been given the proper wine buyer treatment. In my opinion, a critical part of what makes a great wine buying experience is the interaction with the merchant — and their ability to find that perfect match between your palate and a lonely bottle of wine, sitting on the shelf just waiting for you and only you. The sharing of their secret finds, whether it be a great value or a hard to find treasure. It’s all part of the ritual that creates a relationship between you, the merchant and the store. Even if you know what you are looking for, chances are the store is filled with wines that are strangers to you. Someone needs to make the appropriate introductions and make customer and wine both feel special. The right combination of store, wine and merchant can make the store a magical place — but too often one of those elements is overlooked. So I continue to frequent the store based on the selection, but usually leave disappointed with less bottles than if I had been properly tended to — so maybe that isn’t such a bad thing afterall. On a side note, Robert Kacher will be making an appearance at MacArthur on Saturday, December 13th, 2008 from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.

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Tablas Creek Vineyard Côtes de Tablas Blanc 2006

I’ve been busy moving, well unpacking would be more accurate. I haven’t posted in a while as a result and hopefully will be able to catch up as I have had the good fortune of opening some very enjoyable bottles of white wine. One of the best whites from the last week was the Tablas Creek Vineyard Côtes de Tablas Blanc. It is a blend of four estate-grown white Rhône varietals: 59% Viognier, 32% Marsanne, 6% Grenache Blanc and 3% Roussanne.

The Viognier lends itself to the aromatics of stone and tropical fruits with citrus, wet stone and white flowers. On the palate, the Marsanne and Roussanne components compliment the Viognier with peach, apricot, grapefruit, green apple, poached pear and mineral notes. Medium body with a rich, lush mouthfeel — with some spice and good acidity from the Grenache Blanc. 13.5% alcohol. 2600 cases produced.

I bought this wine at MacArthur Beverages for about $17 a bottle. A decent value and a very good bottle of wine which I would certainly purchase again given the opportunity.

MacArthur is much closer to my new address which I appreciate given that they probably have the best selection of French wines in Washington, DC. That being said, I always leave with a bad feeling as if they believe they are doing me a favor by selling me wine. It would really be a hell of a store if the service matched the selection.

I also recently had their 2004 Roussanne, which I also really enjoyed. Medium to full body, very rich and viscous, pronounced minerality with notes of peach, appricot, pear, honeysuckle and tangerine.

Other wines from Tablas Creek:
Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc 2006
Côtes de Tablas Creek Vermentino 2008
Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas Rouge 2006

Other recommended California Rhône whites:
Melville Estate Verna’s Viognier 2007
McPrice Myers Viognier Larner Vineyard 2006
Pax Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier, Nepenthe, Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County, 2006
L’Aventure Roussanne 2006

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